86 Days in Sana'a

A captivating account of Rich's intensive studying of Arabic, travels, and everyday life in Sana'a, Yemen.

Sunday, February 11, 2007

Filling in the Gaps

Asaalam-u-Aleykum everyone,

It's me again. While sitting in bed this morning at 5:15am after being rudely awakened by what seemed like the loudest call to prayer yet, I was thinking about all the things I left out yesterday. So because I didn't fall back to sleep until about 7:30am I made a list so that I would remember some random things I wanted to mention.

First off, I have yet to chew qat. This the the leaf which every male in Yemen age 8 or so and up apparently chews. It is a natural stimulant, which from what I heard is similar to taking aderol or something. Anyway, because I want to be able to sleep at night I have refrained from chewing so far. It seems quite gross to me because these guys, all over, in shops on the streets jam the leaves into their cheeks and proceed to chew on it for hours. It turns their mouths all green, at least on one side. They look like chipmonks, it is absolutely amazing how much they can fit in their cheeks. Seriously they'll have raquetball sized lumps just sitting there in the side of their mouths. Crazy. Plus most people are pretty much addicted to it. As crazy Mohammad said, he chews three times a day and if he doesn't he can't process, he'll have headaches and the sweats. But verbatim he said that when he chews he can do anything, even be the president of Yemen, haha.

Second, the clothes Yemenis wear. Well most women where the full "burqa" I guess its called. Its is a hijab which covers their hair and neck. Then a full length black garment, with a "nikab", the piece that covers their face. All of them wear black. It is quite ridiculous because the little Yemeni girls are very cute and they can wear whatever they want until they hit puberty and then all of a sudden they are forced to adhere to the strict dress code. Also it is not appropriate for men to sit next to women on the bus or converse with them in public if they are not your wife (zowja). As for the men, they typically will sport a loose male skit type of garment, with a collared shirt, a sports coat and the belt with the jambiyya. Or they will where the one piece long following garment, usually still with a sport coat over it and their jambiyya. Most also where I scarf on their heads or around their necks. I think the sport coat is definitely the key to topping off the outfit, that and the jambiyya. I actually got a sweet red and white scarf yesterday that I am currently sporting. Oh, the men also all wear sandals, another thing I picked up today. My purchase of sandals was my first haggle experience in Yemen. The guy wanted 4500 rials and I got him down to 3600 by the end. They felt nice when I tried them on so hopefully they don't fall apart. The box says they are "Crazy Men" - Italy. Haha! I can't see myself sporting on of the full length garments or skirts, but I am definitely going to pick up a sport coat on the street. So at least I'll have the scarf, coat and sandals, with some khakis and a tshirt.

As for sleep it has been going alright. I've been knackered (picking up the British dialect) at nights but am usually awoken by the call to prayer. I haven't been able to sleep in, which I think is partly due to the altitude because I remember in Boulder I had trouble sleeping for the first 2 weeks or so. Plus Old Sana'a is a loud city and all of the buildings are packed together so the sounds from the street echo loud and clear up to my second story bedroom.

There are also a lot of cats (qitta) and dogs (kalb) around town, but they are all strays. No one actually has pets unless the are used for something. For example, donkeys and camels which are used for physical labor.

My dorm is quite nice. Most the buildings in Old Sana'a have five or six stories. It is almost like an apartment building the way it is structured. The doorways are very short, probably b/c all the Yemenis are short, but the ceilings in the rooms are about 20ft high, kind of odd. I like it though, plus I have stain glass windows in my room which you will see in my pictures hopefully in a couple days. The only not so nice thing is the bathrooms. My room is right next to the bathroom. In the bathroom we have the toilet which is pretty much just a porcelain hole in the floor and the shower is right next to it with nothing dividing them. It is going to take some getting used to.

As for the weather, it is amazing. Literally perfect. It gets up to about 75 and sunny during the day and down to about 50 at nights.

And for today, I had my second class which went very well. I got a good amount of homework to do tonight, so I'll have to start buckling down because starting next week I'll have 4hrs of class a day plus a good two-three hours of homework. So pretty much Arabic will be my job which I look foward to because I hate not being able to communicate better with everyone.

As noted before I hope to put up pics later this week. The hidden seihk Daniel (he is from Berkeley, California and literally converted to being a seihk (sp?) 9 months ago so he wears a turban and has a huge beard). Actually yesterday the police were looking for Daniel because he didn't get his visa renewed. He told me that there is an internet cafe where you can hook up your laptop, so if I find that I'll definitely put up my pics.

Ma'salaama!

Also keep up the comments. It puts a big smile on my face when I hear from everyone.

5 Comments:

  • At 8:37 AM, Blogger Jna said…

    Once again, thank you very much for the wakeup call...I'm going to have to start going to bed earlier to accommodate for this ish! I actually forgot to tell you that I had quite the frustrating week when I got back to school...apparently my car key decided to hop right off my key chain, and since its programmed and I didnt have another, I relied on my roomies for a few days until my car could get towed to the dealer and he could make me a new key. It sucks to feel stranded like that. But anyways, yes, please post those pics on webshots when u get a chance...I am going to send out the first piece of mail tomorrow morning so we'll see how long it takes to get to you! Remember to ask your instructor how to say "The price is too high" and "I don't like them" so you can perfect your haggling skills. I think that's it...LOVE YOU!

     
  • At 12:42 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Richard,
    This is the 3rd time I've tried to send a comment, this thing is a pain in the ass.
    It is good to see that you were able to visit the internet cafe again today. Your reports are interesting, I know from other's comments that we all look forward to your reports. It appears you are assimilating fairly quickly, learning on a very steep curve, which is why you decided to do this. It is the best way to learn the culture and the language, there is no substitute for experience. By the way did you get the visa straightened out?
    It has finally warmed up, day time temps are in the low 30s, although an artic front is moving in tomorrow night, followed by the possibility of a substantial snow accumulation on Tuesday. After all it is winter.
    I don't remember if I told you the US beat Mexico in soccer last week 2-0. That is the US on top 7 of the last 11 games, with two losses in Mexico and two ties. Mexican fans are not happy, but it appears that the US has replaced them as the N. American soccer power.
    QU took over 2nd place in the NEC basketball standing by defeating Sacred Heart earlier this week. But, yesterday they lost at 1st place C. Conn. St. by 20 pts, I think the score was 92-72.
    Not much else new here, everyone is fine.
    Remember to open the card on Wednesday the 14th. Stay in touch.
    Love,
    Dad

     
  • At 1:55 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Dele,
    I was pleasantly suprised when I saw that I would be able to put off my work further by reading another blog posting. I thought you would only be able to post once in a long while, so this is very cool. You have done a gret job so far describing what you have experience because I have a good picture in my head of the city and the people... I cannot wait for the pictures. If you do end up chewing on some of those wacky leaves make sure you give me a call so I can hear you say crazy stuff! It also sounds like you are in heaven fashion-wise... you get to wear a blazer EVERYDAY! Are you gonna pick up a dagger? Do it... do it.

    Good luck with school.

    - Mark

    ps - since your dad gave you sports updates, I will too. Here is a result that you will appreciate: Jimmy Grabow ran 13:44 at U of Wash!

     
  • At 1:24 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    hey heff!
    i found your posts to be very interesting. its good to hear that your enjoying it in yemen. i bet learning arabic is a pain but its prolly awesome being able to say things to people in their native language. the track teams had NEC's yesterday and there were some great performances. have a great trip and i cant wait to see some pictures!
    matt

     
  • At 2:35 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    hey heff hook me up with some of the crazy qat leaves when you get home. The Phillies better watch out the New York Amazings signed the South Korean sensation Chan Ho Park hahahaha. Have a sick time and dont get in trouble dropping game.

    -T$

     

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